Klaudija Mikulić, Bijeli Brijeg, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Small in Size, but Immense in Significance
Author: Klaudija Mikulić
Everyone living in Mostar knows about the Small and Big Stairs that connect the neighborhood of Bijeli Brijeg with the city. My first encounter with the Small Stairs takes me back to the past and brings back not-so-pleasant memories. I came to Mostar during the war with my parents and daughter. At that time, we lived in the city center. My father was seriously ill, so he was often treated at the hospital in Bijeli Brijeg.
I would visit him every day, sometimes multiple times, using the Small Stairs. Lost in my own concerns and thoughts, I paid little attention to my surroundings, solely focused on reaching my father quickly and hoping for good news. On my way back from the hospital, I would take a moment to sit on the stone wall of the Small Stairs, catch my breath, light a cigarette, and gather my thoughts. It was during those moments that I began to notice the stairs and the path overgrown with weeds and bushes. The whole area appeared neglected, untamed, and somewhat unsettling. With withered and wind-damaged pine trees, broken branches, and everything swallowed by overgrown weeds and bushes, it became a forest that was impassable and posed a danger to pedestrians.
The young, wild pine trees were losing their battle against the encroaching weeds. Years of accumulated trash marred the landscape, and certain parts of the pedestrian path had become completely impassable. Despite its neglected state and the piling debris, I tried to envision the area as it had once been: A canopy of lush pine trees concealing steps crafted from pristine white stone, meticulously maintained ornamental shrubs and blooming flowers, undamaged resting benches, functional lighting casting a warm glow, and strategically positioned waste bins. For those who preferred an alternative to the stairs, a meandering stone pathway intertwined with them, adding an extra layer of intrigue to the surroundings.
Several years later, I moved to Bijeli Brijeg. The Small Stairs became a part of my daily routine. The hurried morning descents passed by in an instant, but returning home after a long day at work wasn’t always effortless. The Small Stairs had longer sections to walk, making them less physically demanding than the Big Stairs, but I still had to overcome the equivalent to an ascent of seven floors. Unlike my first encounter with the stairs, when I was filled with worry and sadness while visiting my father, now, after conquering the climb, I found solace and relaxation in the comfort of my own home. Since I don’t drive, I often use the Small Stairs for all my other trips into the city. A short descent through the forested stairs, and I’m already close to the city center. However, returning home in the evening has proven challenging. The stairway lighting was often malfunctioning or provided only dim and sporadic illumination. Hearing stories of attacks on pedestrians added an extra layer of discomfort and fear. I would sometimes pause at the base of the stairs, looking up towards the top, contemplating whether to proceed or not. Frequently, I chose to take a detour along the road instead.
As the seasons changed – from spring to summer, autumn to winter – the stairs remained neglected, their appearance unchanged. Only the occasional blanket of snow could temporarily conceal the signs of environmental neglect. While some cleaning efforts took place in the spring, they seemed to go unnoticed, as the area quickly returned to its previous state. The public lighting constantly fell victim to acts of vandalism, leaving me pondering the individuals filled with such hatred and destructiveness that they derived pleasure from damaging public property.
For several years now, a middle-aged homeless man has been living near the stairs. He found solace near an abandoned house, where he arranged a makeshift bed beneath a shelter. Regardless of the weather, he resided there throughout the year, surviving the elements. During the day, I often encountered him scavenging through trash cans, and I couldn’t help but wonder about the circumstances that led him to this point. Moved by compassion, I reached out to an organization dedicated to assisting the homeless. They informed me that they were aware of his presence but mentioned that he consistently declined any form of outreach or support.
One cold morning, before departing for work, I prepared a nourishing meal and a warm blanket. When I passed by, I noticed he was still asleep, so I carefully left the provisions near his shelter and continued on my way. Behind him undoubtedly lay a tumultuous life story, and through my small act of kindness, I sought to restore his faith in humanity and instill a glimmer of hope that a brighter future was possible.
Several years ago, our city began experiencing a series of positive transformations. The redevelopment of Trimuša Park brought about improvements that extended to the Small Stairs. This time, the renovation efforts were thorough and comprehensive. The changes were visibly noticeable as dead trees and debris were cleared away, overgrown shrubs and weeds were removed, and the accumulated trash, which held surprising items like car parts, was finally disposed of. The same location underwent a remarkable transformation, presenting an entirely different appearance.
The Small Stairs, after being cleaned and tidied up, radiated a newfound brilliance. Moreover, a recently opened café near the Small Stairs has become a beloved gathering spot for the youth. As a result, the Small Stairs are no longer deserted during the evenings, as lively voices and music now fill the air, breaking the silence of the night. This transformation has brought a sense of vibrancy and activity to the once-quiet area, fostering a renewed sense of vitality and a deepened spirit of community.
Thanks to the remarkable positive changes that have taken place, the ascent of the Small Stairs has transformed from a daunting task to a manageable endeavor for me. Each time I return home, a sense of fulfillment washes over me, knowing that the act of climbing the stairs has evolved into a rewarding mini workout. It fills me with optimism to think that years of neglect towards our environment and surroundings are now behind us. We are now embarking on a profound journey where nurturing nature takes center stage. In doing so, I believe our society as a whole will blossom and thrive.