Meliha Nametak-Long, Podhum, Bosnia & Herzegovina
The City
Author: Meliha Nametak-Long
Why this particular topic? Why are we still discussing it after 30 years? Who finds it intriguing at this point? I was genuinely surprised when I discovered that one local sign of peace is the simple act of walking on both the left and right sides of the city.
Fate led me to Mostar by chance. As life’s tapestry often weaves, a combination of circumstances has bound me to this city where I have resided and worked for the past seven years. Not an insignificant amount of time, nor an excessive one.
However, it has been ample enough for me to truly grasp the charm of this city—situated between two rivers, adorned with a splendid fusion of Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian architecture, and graced with picturesque parks and abundant greenery. It exudes an aura of both exoticism and intensity.
Extreme heat, fierce winds, and individuals with uncompromising attitudes of acceptance or rejection. There is no middle ground; it’s all or nothing. A unique sense of humor that one must either adapt to or risk being socially isolated.
As I interact with various people, whether in professional environments or chance encounters, no one has questioned my residential location, family background, or even made customary jokes aimed at probing deeper into one’s character. I freely traverse the entire city without facing scrutiny of my identification, which differs from my experiences in European cities. I have not experienced even the slightest hint of discomfort, unpleasantness, or unease. These observations are based on my personal encounters.
However, through conversations with colleagues and local acquaintances, I have come to recognize persistent barriers, particularly among the younger generation, which sparks my curiosity.
If we cross paths in the Old Town, they request that I keep it a secret from their parents that I saw them there. This particular encounter led me to have a conversation with a close friend who is a proud resident of Mostar. I wanted her to shed light on the underlying issue, as these young individuals don’t engage in smoking, drug use, or any harmful behavior – they simply enjoy each other’s company. I am puzzled by the reasons why these young individuals face opposition from their parents. In reply, my friend playfully comments, “Oh, my dear, their parents still have mental barriers that they haven’t overcome.” Unfortunately, these barriers are passed down to their children. It is important to note that not all parents have these ‘mental fences.’ Only a minority of Mostar parents would restrict their children from visiting the Old Town, likely because they themselves spent their own youth there. Please don’t take offense, as you are not a native of Mostar either.
Despite not being a native of Mostar, I fail to grasp the relevance of that fact. If I had a child who wanted to pursue music, my immediate thought would be to enroll them at the Pavarotti Center even if it is on the ‘other side’ of town. That seems like the obvious choice to me. There are no restrictions on movement, no divisions between left and right. There is only one city with its own unique blend of beauty and challenges, much like any other city in the world.
Let me address some current issues, such as parking availability and fees, waste collection and disposal, as well as the management of bulky waste. The notion that garbage smells better on one side or that parking spaces on the Main Street are larger than those on Avenija is simply nonsensical!
Despite spending a significant amount of time in Mostar, I still can’t comprehend why it is considered a problematic city. In my perspective, Mostar stands out as the only multi-ethnic city in Bosnia and Herzegovina where people of diverse nationalities and ethnic groups coexist harmoniously. At noon, the call to prayer from the minarets resonates alongside the ringing of bells from Catholic and Orthodox churches, creating a unique symphony of religious diversity. The inhabitants deeply value their customs and traditions, actively engaging in communal initiatives like yard clean-ups, riverbed maintenance of the Radobolja and Neretva rivers, grass trimming, plant cultivation, and various other collaborative endeavors. Throughout my time here, I have never encountered any form of intolerance or witnessed the potential for conflicts. Additionally, I conveniently choose to pay my bills at the “opposite” post office due to its proximity to my home.
I’ve been contemplating the issue: What is the underlying problem in Mostar? When I look at it from a rational perspective, I struggle to identify any significant issues. So, why is Mostar often characterized as a problematic city? Is it due to the constraints imposed by the international community? The political rivalries and the temporary collective consciousness that emerges during election seasons? Or maybe it’s the occasional clashes among football fans? It’s worth noting that such incidents occur throughout Europe, and Mostar is not the only place in the world where fan groups encounter conflicts. Moreover, these incidents have become less frequent in recent times.
The media also contribute to the perpetuation of these incidents. At times, I can’t help but feel that certain online platforms compete in spreading more animosity. However, the reality is quite different; it’s far from the truth they depict. In fact, people of all nationalities coexist harmoniously in this magnificent city. This unity was particularly evident during the challenging period of the pandemic when we all faced a common adversary. We mourned our loved ones without the opportunity for proper farewells, and our neighbors became more than just acquaintances—they became like family.
This only reinforces the initial premise that people of all nationalities can freely live, work, socialize, and stroll together throughout Mostar, a city that exudes beauty and unity.