Amara Stupac, Cernica, Bosnia & Herzegovina
The Clanking of the Manhole Covers
Author: Amara Stupac
The age-old Bosnian-Herzegovinian folk song, titled ‘Don’t Make Noise with Your Wooden Sandals,’ vividly portrays the familiar clacking sound of wooden clogs on cobblestone streets. While the traditional wooden sandals have given way to contemporary footwear like Crocs, one element remains unchanged—the echoing clanking of the manhole covers.
As I nibble on a pretzel, actually only savoring its salty top, I set aside the remaining portion for Žućo, the friendly neighborhood dog. I stroll along the peaceful alley, contemplating what to cook for lunch. The scents around me always ignite my culinary creativity. I hear the high-pitched whistle of a pressure cooker, catching an unappealing whiff of beef that doesn’t quite suit my taste. On the other hand, another neighbor’s home carries the enticing aroma of dolma. Further down the street, the delightful fragrance of kadaif fills the air. However, my journey is momentarily halted as I stumble upon an unexpected obstacle – a concrete crater right in front of the gate.
At times, I feel as if they have playfully wielded a power drill machine, deliberately enticing passers by to briefly pause and relish the delightful scents emanating from the nearby kitchens, arousing their appetites. However, reality falls far from these playful impressions. The street’s visual character has undergone substantial changes over the years due to numerous concrete repairs, leaving a lasting impact on its overall appearance.
I exchange greetings with my neighbor as he navigates his bulky car over the uneven concrete beside me. The sturdy Michelin tires of his car rumble as he transitions from the smooth new asphalt to the cracked surface of the alley. I expect him to display frustration, but instead, he wears a disappointed expression, nodding at the numerous cracks in the concrete. This alley has undergone numerous modifications, repairs, and reconstructions, resembling a child’s sandbox that has been constantly reshaped. As one of the oldest alleys in Mostar, it now showcases a medley of concrete colors. It’s hard not to feel a twinge of envy when I see beautifully adorned neighborhoods elsewhere, as I long for such enhancements in our own neighborhood.
Filled with optimism, my neighbor couldn’t contain his excitement about the partially laid asphalt on our alley, despite its slightly uneven layout. Unfortunately, due to a lack of communication between the contractor and the technicians responsible for installing the cables, the asphalt was cut and patched, or perhaps there was a delay in the delivery of materials.
Nevertheless, he found solace in the familiar saying, “Something is better than nothing,” a sentiment that resonates with many of us. This saying symbolizes our collective hope that the authorities overseeing the infrastructure will recognize the significance of our densely populated alleys and take steps to pave them. The current layout of our alley resembles a rural landscape, which starkly contrasts with the well-maintained adjacent settlement of the UNESCO zone of Mostar.
The terrain and construction irregularities make themselves known through the clanking sounds coming from the manhole covers. Instead of the usual bells and anklets, we now hear the distinct clang of cast iron in many households. This amusing observation was confirmed when a local newsmonger, with curlers in her hair, momentarily stepped outside, thinking it might be her husband or simply conducting a brief survey of the surroundings. I guess even a wobbly manhole has its part to play.
Without a doubt, due to the prolonged lack of rain in recent days, the debris failed to create an effective seal on the manhole covers. Lost in contemplation, I quickened my pace toward home, seeking relief from the unpleasant smell that drifted up from the manholes. Regrettably, the delightful fragrances of dolma and kadaif, which typically bring joy and satisfaction, were overshadowed by the overwhelming and pervasive odor. To add to my growing uneasiness, I felt a slight discomfort in my ankle as I continued my walk.
The narrow streets, resembling a vibrant floor mural, present obstacles for both the elderly, who may struggle with their unsteady gait, and parents pushing strollers. However, there is a surprising benefit for infants who delight in a roller coaster-like ride that surprisingly aids their digestion. By enhancing the infrastructure, we can improve not only the visual appeal but also elevate the residents’ quality of life on these streets to a considerable extent.