Maja Knezović, Cim, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Spanning the Radobolja River
Author: Maja Knezović
As a civil engineer living in Mostar, a city renowned for its famous bridge and the dedicated bridgekeepers known as Mostari, I am deeply honored to be involved in the design of bridges. I have been privileged to contribute to the post-war reconstruction of several bridges, and it has been a great pleasure for me to design the most recent and significant bridge that spans the two banks of the Neretva River, proudly named the Students’ Bridge.
Although I wasn’t directly involved in the restoration of one specific bridge, it holds a deep emotional significance for me. Growing up in Ilići, near Cim, it was not uncommon during my childhood to find myself playing near this bridge. I have fond memories of learning how to swim in the Radobolja River, and there is one incident from my youth that remains vivid in my mind. Out of youthful curiosity, I decided to coat myself in tar instead of mud before taking a leap into the river. While the tar didn’t harm the river, it did lead to a visit to the doctors at Bijeli Brijeg Hospital. Additionally, the field that belonged to my late friend Marjan was located near the bridge. We would often gather there, sharing moments and enjoying a drink together. These memories connected to the Radobolja River flowing through Ilići hold a special place in my heart.
The Ilići Bridge, known as Ćatića Ćuprija, was constructed in the 16th century. It is one of a series of small bridges built over the Radobolja River during that era. While all the other bridges have long since succumbed to time and destruction, this bridge has endured. Crafted from stone, it boasts two spans, measuring a total length of 9.5 meters and a width of 2.65 meters.
This bridge stands as the oldest surviving testament to Mostar’s rich history. While other bridges have been razed and subsequently restored, such as the Kriva Ćuprija and Stari Most, the Old Bridge, the Ilići Bridge has remained steadfast. Although it has undergone reconstruction and expansion, it proudly retains its status as the oldest bridge in Mostar, a symbol of resilience throughout the ages.
According to legend, the Ćatija Ćuprija in Ilići was built by an ancestor of the Ćatić family, an old Mostar family that resided in this part of the city and also owned a tower in Ilići. “Speaking about the construction of the new water supply system in Mostar in 1885, Karl Peez mentions that the water pipes were laid beneath about twenty exceptionally picturesque and beautiful stone bridges on the Radobolja River, which were later buried under the ground during the regulation of the river,” wrote Hivzija Hasandedić in his book Cultural Monuments from the Turkish Era in Mostar.
Nearly a decade ago, I decided to take an evening stroll to the bridge, driven by the desire to reminisce about old memories. Little did I know that what awaited me would be a sight so astonishing that it left me utterly speechless.
I stumbled upon a bridge with a single arch in a state of disrepair. It was evident that the oldest bridge in Mostar was on the brink of a historic collapse, and time seemed to be running out.
The bridge was in a dire state due to its age, neglect, overgrown vegetation, and the presence of cracks in the stone arch and right abutment. The combination of plants, heavy rains, and freezing temperatures threatened the collapse of the right arch. Built with Tenelija limestone, the bridge had been forgotten for years and at that moment resembled a ruin rather than a symbol.
Motivated by the urgency of the situation, I took the initiative to appeal to the city for the preservation of the bridge, and I was fortunate to have the support of several colleagues in this endeavor. Additionally, local news portals expressed their willingness to support our cause by publishing our appeal, ensuring our message reached a wider audience.
After a couple of years of worry and fear regarding the bridge’s future, the long-awaited renovation finally commenced, led by one of my colleagues. It filled me with immense joy and hope, as I believed that the bridge would be saved from further decay. However, as is often the case in Mostar, the project began to drag on, lacking the necessary urgency even with the upcoming elections looming. Months continued to slip away, and every now and then, I would visit the bridge, enjoying a glass of wine with a friend who lived nearby. Yet, with each passing day, my initial optimism faded, gradually giving way to a growing sense of disappointment and frustration.
A disheartening thought began to consume me: Does anyone in today’s world truly value and recognize the importance of a single bridge, even if it happens to be the oldest in the entire city? Regrettably, it seemed that no one did. I couldn’t help but wonder why everything appeared to be turned upside down, with my former underachieving schoolmates now occupying positions of power as prominent figures, politicians, bosses, and decision-makers. Meanwhile, the exceptional colleagues and once-promising students had ventured abroad to places like Canada, the United States, Ireland, Germany, and beyond. I felt terribly disappointed and defeated.
Undeterred, I pressed on. The appeals continued, drawing in additional colleagues and journalists. To my astonishment, even Father Matej, the village priest, lent his support by passionately advocating for our cause in one of his sermons.
A few months later, I decided to revisit the bridge. As I approached, I felt a mix of nervousness and excitement about what I would see. However, I was pleasantly surprised. The stone bridge over the Radobolja River in Ilići was gleaming with a newfound radiance. In fact, the two-arched bridge, which is older than the Old Bridge in Mostar, had received a fresh makeover.
The original arches and remnants of the oldest bridge were carefully preserved. The remaining sections underwent meticulous restoration work, utilizing stone sourced from Ćiro’s building. This remarkable feat was made possible through the collaboration of construction workers, architects, and engineers, who worked tirelessly to breathe new life into the bridge. It is important to acknowledge that the restoration had a positive impact on the interests of the owners of nearby hospitality establishments, playing a significant role in the overall revitalization of the area.
While I have some reservations about the use of cement mortar, concrete slabs, and the precision of the carved stones in the bridge railing, I am overall thrilled with the final outcome of the restoration work. The bridge has been successfully saved and now serves as a pedestrian crossing over the Radobolja River, addressing the lack of pedestrian paths on the new bridge.
Today, the area surrounding the bridge is vibrant and full of life. Children play, people of all ages leisurely stroll, and there is an increasing awareness of the bridge’s significance. Although progress may be gradual, I’m relieved that I didn’t lose all hope and become entirely pessimistic.